Free Pinhole Exposure Charts

Download Free Pinhole Camera Exposure Charts (Printable)

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One of the things I love about pinhole photography is how simple the camera is… and how not simple the exposure can feel at first.

With a normal camera you can just change the aperture and let the meter do the work. With a pinhole camera, the “aperture” is fixed (the hole never changes), exposures are often longer than you expect, and most light meters don’t even offer the f-numbers we’re working with.

So to make life easier—especially when you’re out in the field—I’ve put together a set of free printable pinhole exposure charts for some popular pinhole focal lengths and f-numbers. You can download them, keep one in your camera bag, and spend less time doing maths and more time making photographs.

Step 1: Find your pinhole f-number

To calculate the exposure time for a pinhole camera, the first thing we need is the f-number (aperture). Unlike a normal lens, this value doesn’t change because the hole stays the same size — which actually simplifies things once you know it.

Pinhole f-number = distance from the film ÷ diameter of the pinhole

Here’s a quick example:

Focal length (distance from pinhole to film): 25mm

Pinhole diameter: 0.18mm

25 ÷ 0.18 = 138

So the working aperture is f/138.

Step 2: Convert your light meter reading to pinhole exposure

Most pinhole cameras have very high f-numbers (like f/138, f/176, f/235). In most cases, those options simply aren’t available on a light meter.

The simple workaround is:

Set your light meter to an aperture it can read — f/22 is a good standard.
Take a reading.
Convert that reading to your pinhole f-number using the formula below.

Exposure multiplier = (pinhole f-number ÷ metered f-number)²

Then:

Pinhole exposure time = metered time × exposure multiplier

Example pinhole exposure calculation

Let’s say:

Your meter is set to f/22
The meter suggests 1/30 sec
Your pinhole camera is f/138

138 ÷ 22)² = 39.3

Now multiply the metered time by 39.3:

1/30 × 39.3 ≈ 1.3 seconds

So your pinhole exposure time is about 1.3 seconds.

Reciprocity Failure (Important for longer pinhole exposures)

Once your pinhole exposures start getting into a few seconds (and especially beyond 10–15 seconds) you’ll often need to add more time than the meter or chart suggests. This is because most films don’t respond perfectly to light during long exposures—a behaviour called reciprocity failure.

What this means in real terms:

A “metered” 10 seconds might need 15–25 seconds
A “metered” 30 seconds might need 60 seconds or more

How much extra time you need depends entirely on the film, so I always recommend doing a quick test with your favourite stock and writing the results down.

Tip: If you’re shooting paper negatives, reciprocity can be even more noticeable—test and take notes.

Quick Field Tips (to save wasted frames)

Here are a few practical things that make pinhole shooting more reliable:

Use a solid tripod. Even slight movement will soften the image.
Shield the pinhole from wind. Wind can vibrate lightweight cameras (especially tin/wood builds).
Block stray light. Make sure the pinhole shutter fully covers the hole and check for light leaks.
Keep notes. Write down: film, lighting, metered time, actual time used, and results. This is the fastest way to “dial in” your process.
Bracket when unsure. If it’s an important shot, do one exposure at the calculated time, then one a stop longer.
Watch the shadows. Pinhole images often benefit from a little extra exposure to lift shadow detail.